The rustic walls of Hintergrathütte in Sulden

Adrenaline and adventure

THE HISTORY OF THE HINTERGRATHÜTTE

Those must have been exciting times! About 200 years ago, people in many European countries discovered the "dreamland" of the Alps. What was once a harsh and inhospitable area became a coveted destination. As they acquired the necessary technology to venture high into the mountains, a magical world unfolded before them. They gradually began to explore and built refuges so they could stay for several days, including in the area around the Ortler.

Just imagine: no cars, no electric light. The world was very different back then. Kings and princes ruled over the land and its people, who had to do as they were commanded. It was these very princes who took on the development of this mountain world.

Immerse yourself in the history of the hintergrathütte and the pioneers of the Alps!

The snow-covered Hintergrathütte from several years ago in Sulden at the Dreigestirn (Three Peaks)

How it all began

Once upon a time …

The hintergrathütte was the first mountain refuge in Tyrol and has a fascinating history. It all began with the desire to climb the Ortler. Princes and nobles strove to be the first to reach the summit of the King and sent mountain officers to climb the mountain on their behalf – but they all failed. One day, the inconspicuous caretaker and hunter from Churburg, Josef Pichler, offered his services. The Passeier Valley native set out to be the first to conquer the highest mountain in South Tyrol. Just two days after being commissioned, he succeeded. The date was September 27, 1804. He followed a route from Trafoi, which, however, is no longer used today. One year later, in 1805, he climbed the Ortler again, this time from Sulden via the Hintergrat ridge.

A historical black and white picture of the Hintergrathütte at the foot of the Ortler

Josef Pichler’s success

The first on King Ortler

As a famous mountaineer, "Psairer Josele," as he was called, gained the favour of an official, Johannes Gebhard, and was tasked with building a refuge. Although Gebhard was a subject of Archduke Johann, this first small shelter was known as the Gebhard'sche Hütte. It was no larger than a bivouac and located much higher than the current building. One year later, Gebhard planned to build the large Schönleitenhütte on the site of a shepherd's hut at 2,248 meters. It was already considered a base for mountaineers. Of course, he did not make this decision himself, but rather he received the order from Archduke Johann. These plans failed due to the loss of Tyrol to Bavaria. At that time, there was also little interest in climbing the Ortler via the Hintergrat, or to be more precise, there was too little interest. As a result, Pichler's construction was left to its own devices and gradually fell into disrepair.

The entrance to Hintergrathütte on the Hintergrat, at the foot of Ortler

A Russian State Councillor and Italian shells

From the turn of the century to the World War

At the end of the 19th century, the ascent of the Ortler via the Hintergrat ridge enjoyed a golden age. A Russian State Councillor from Warsaw named Carl Baeckmann financed a new refuge. On August 27, 1892, the Bäckmannhütte was opened at the lower Gratsee lake, at 2611 meters above sea level. It was located about 200 meters below the current lodge. The house was well-equipped and had 16 sleeping berths: eight for mountain guides and eight for tourists. There was no on-site manager to cater for the guests. Due to the growing popularity of mountaineering, it had to be expanded just a few years later, in 1895, to accommodate more visitors. Baeckmann subsequently donated it to the Sulden Mountain Guide Association, which in return dedicated a monument to him. This monument can still be seen today. Mountain tourism boomed to such an extent that the mountain guides built a larger refuge at the current location. The building served as an important base for Austrian troops as they fought in the mountains during World War One until it was destroyed by Italian shells in 1915.

The grandparents of the current leadership of the Gutgstell family

… Up to the present day

1920s to today

From 1920 to 1922, the Sulden mountain guides renovated the hostel that had been damaged in the war. It now offered 20 sleeping berths and had various tenants over the years. From 1958, Josef Pinggera, known as "Tammele Sepp," ran the lodge. Eventually, Fritz Gutgsell was lucky enough to become its caretaker. After 1973, he acquired part of the building. He was often referred to as an angry refuge keeper, although those who call him that probably do not know that his shouting also saved lives. That's just how it goes in the mountains. His son bought the remainder of the refuge from the mountain guides. And that is how it came to pass that this Alpine jewel has been in the hands of the Gutgsell family for 40 years now. With its three stories, today it offers 75 berths. For us, the Gutgsell family, it is much more than a possession; it is a precious gem. We have put our heart and soul into making it comfortable and cosy through expansion and renovation work. When you come, you bring it to life – and that's what we live for, with all our passion.

The war in snow and ice

The Ortler front

During World War I, there was a front in the Ortler area. It was the highest battleground in the entire history of mankind up to that point. It all began with the occupation of the Hochjoch by the Italian troops of the "Alpini." A large part of the local population belonged to the Austrian military. The men found themselves compelled literally to take a stand. They occupied the summit of the Ortler and moved the fighting directly into the rock face. Below the summit, they constructed a tunnel of rock and ice in which up to 30 men endured for months. There was a weather station, a field telephone, and even a photo laboratory there. Supplies and fuel were sufficient for about three weeks. Soon, they built a cable car to the summit to supply the fighters with ammunition. From 1916, there was even a cannon on the summit.

The Austrian troops soon occupied the nearby Königsspitze as well, while the Italian Alpini moved to one of its ridges. Much more fighting took place at this front than directly on the Ortler. The Austrian side also built a cable car to this peak and established heated barracks in a crevasse at the foot of the mountain. Initially, it could accommodate 16 soldiers, later 25 men. The trench was destroyed by a lightning strike.

For the fighters on both sides, the enemy was not the biggest problem despite the machine guns – instead the weather in the mountains claimed the most lives. Avalanches, lightning strikes, and freezing cold were everyday challenges. Because war never takes a winter break, the soldiers were frequently forced to clear several metres of snow from their positions. Nevertheless, they were completely cut off from the outside world. And so to maintain contact, carrier pigeons were used.

To this day, remains of the fortifications, equipment, and even live ammunition serve as a reminder of the madness that occurred over 100 years ago. This mountain front shows once again how senseless war is.